Sapa Warrior: Vietnam
Fearless, strong and confident. A reminder that we are not powerless. We still have our thoughts, our interests, and our intelligence.
In April of 2019, I found myself standing shoulder-to-shoulder with a local tribeswoman from the Sapa region of Vietnam. The air was heavy with rain and humidity, and the unruly mud was very vocal beneath my rubber boots, squishing and squashing with every step. This tour I am about to share is one of my most cherished memories from my trip to Vietnam. Unmatched strength, confidence, and stability radiated from the local women of Sapa and I knew very quickly that I had much to learn, so I savored every moment.
The tour I went on, and highly, highly recommend, is managed by a local female-owned trekking group called Sapa Sisters. They caught my attention because they are one of the few Hmong (local tribe) businesses in the region; they hire local women to lead the tours through the beautiful northern mountains of Sapa. Many Hmong face higher levels of poverty and barriers to creating sustainable businesses; it is through tourism that they are able to continue to support their families and local communities. This is what we should be looking for when planning a trip.
When the torrential rain decides its time has come, what was once a path becomes more like a slide and slide. It was then I realized that I wanted no one else than a local to guide me through the mountainous rice fields.
ARRIVAL
Embarking on a trip to Sapa began with an overnight train from Hanoi. This was my first overnight train and let me tell you, I could not wait for it to begin. Our train car contained four beds in total, bunk-bed style with two on each side. My friend and I secured the bunks on one side, and a French father and his daughter on the other. They, from Paris, conversed with my friend immediately. I listened as they weaved between French and English. It was a beautiful moment of diversity and connection that tends to happen on the best travel adventures. Eventually, as the lights dimmed, we surrendered ourselves to the gentle rocking of the train and closed our eyes for the night.
Contrary to my expectations, the overnight train proved smoother than one would expect. The beds, although compact, were cozy and comfortable. At 6 am, the wake-up call began, marking the passing of an eight-hour journey. The soft morning sun greeted us. We gathered our things, brushed our teeth, and prepared to disembark our temporary resting place.
Our arrival brought us to the Lao Cai station, nestled within the northern reaches of Vietnam. Within, we found a tiny village all centered around a town square, lined with restaurants and convenience stores. An unexpected moment of disorientation swept over me, compelling me to open Google maps. It was then that I realized we were right on the border between Vietnam and China. Almost within reach, China beckoned to me, tugging my curiosity. It is fairly common to need visas to travel to certain countries, even if your visit is only for a short period of time. I only had a visa for Vietnam, yet I had such a strong desire to cross the border into China, even just to take a little peak. So many places around the world are filtered through the lenses of media, politicians, and preconceived notions, breeding fear and animosity. Yet in that moment, I wanted to uncover the truth firsthand as to what is beyond the invisible border between Vietnam and China. Perhaps for another moment of time.
TO THE RICE FIELDS WE GO
From the train station, we were picked up by a series of vans from the touring company. A desire to capture the best view compelled me to squeeze three of us into the front seat. After what felt like an unending labyrinth of winding roads going up and up into the hills of Sapa, we arrived at the Sapa Sisters office downtown for orientation and much needed coffee. Sapa Sisters' mission is to support the local tribal. This empowerment and strong community support resonated with me. I feel a sense of responsibility to support locals directly when possible. I was grateful for the work Sapa Sisters was doing and the tour was nothing short of exceptional. All the moving parts ran seamlessly, despite the cloudy skies waiting for their siren to release their wrath.
For a seemingly modest fee, we were offered the privilege of a private guided trek through the beautiful rice fields. I remember our guide well - a figure etched deep into my memory, eluding strength, confidence and a stable connection to her ancestral roots. She stood tall, fearlessly leading the way as we prepared our backpacks and the adventure that awaited us. Initially unsure of what to expect, I found myself with questions. Would we have a language barrier? Would we find common ground for conversation? However, as she opened the doors to her world, so came the stories of her life and village. I was grateful to have the privilege to listen.
One characteristic that struck me about some Vietnamese women was their candor. When we arrived in hiking sandals and sneakers, our guide took one look at us and promptly led us into town to be fitted for a pair of waterproof rain boots. Little to no hesitation. And let me tell you, she was right. The downpour was luring and the resulting mud made having rain boats a non-negotiable.
THE TREK & A BAG OF CANDY
As we started our trek from the town into the mountainous rice fields, I felt my adventure adrenaline kicking in, excited to see what was beyond every upcoming turn. I didn't want to miss a thing. I was curious about how the local tribes men and women navigated between villages, how marriage and relationships functioned, and where they sourced their clothing. I even learned that although some dogs were part of the family, others, the naughty ones, were not. This was just the way their lives went. Information to take in and observe.
At one point, the rain's intensity compelled us to seek refuge beneath a bamboo canopy. In Hanoi, prior to boarding the overnight train, we had purchased a bag of candies from a local street vendor. At this point in the tour, two younger women had joined us, lending a helping hand during the especially slippery sections of the trail. I felt much gratitude towards these young women and although I was paying them for the tour, I wanted to show my appreciation further. I offered the bag of sweets to each of them, which I was met with giggles and smiles. I realized that although a simple gesture, the gift of candies from a bigger city was special. I wished I had more to offer, to reciprocate their willingness to share glimpses of their lives, which maybe was always intended to be private, but circumstances had dictated otherwise. It is hard to explain, but after the exchange of candies, I felt a small bond grow, a feeling of mutual respect, one that even now I think back to fondly.
One of my all-time favorite travel pictures is the one at the top of this page. I've named it, “Sapa Warrior,” a portrait that encapsulates the essence of that foggy, rainy day in April of 2019. I love the way my guide is standing, with the veil of mist hiding her. She embodies strength, resilience, and fearlessness. I referred back to this image when the COVID pandemic first started as a reminder that I can be empower these traits too.
Although the photo's quality is low (due to fear of water damage to my digital camera), it holds the power to transport me back to that day — the day I was blessed to observe the lives of the Sapa's tribespeople, which revealed that they are not so different from you and me. They, too, get married, support their families, cook meals, grow their own food, and foster community. They laugh, create, and embody strength in both body and mind. They inspire. I hope to return one day back to Sapa Sisters, to seek out the Sapa Warrior, and express my deepest gratitude for being a beacon of strength precisely when I needed it most.
Thank you to all at Sapa Sisters. I hope to return some day very soon.
If you are headed to Vietnam and have any interest in seeing the Northern Sapa region on foot, I cannot recommend booking a tour with Sapa Sisters Trekking Adventures. You will be in the best hands!
